Maintain and understand your swimming pool
In addition to our technician's recommendations, here are some tips for maintaining your pool.
The water in your swimming pool passes through a circuit several times a day in order to be purified. It is a closed circuit made up of pipes, pipes and equipment. The water enters the circuit via the skimmers and exits through the discharge nozzles. Then come into function many devices.
Step 1
The skimmers and bottom drains and exits the basin towards the pre-filtration
2nd step
The filter pump
Step 3
The filter that removes impurities
Step 4
Heating
Step 5
The treatment product dosing system
Step 6
The return nozzles that return clean water to the pool
Water circulation in the pool :
The water in your pool should stagnate as little as possible. Stagnant water leads to the proliferation of algae and micro-organisms. The pump will create a current. Thanks to this current, the water will be able to enter the skimmers then take the filtration circuit to come out completely clean via the discharge nozzles which also create movement in the pool.
I. Commissioning
1°) The first commissioning:
Once the pool is operational, fill it up to the level of 3/4 of the skimmers.
Put the multi-way valve in the closed position.
Close all the valves (skimmers, bottom drain, brush socket) downstream of the pump in preparation for priming it.
Fill the pump's pre-filtering basket with water and close it securely (paying attention to the seal).
Put the valve on circulation
On the panel, start the pump and simultaneously open the previously closed skimmer valve.
Your pump is priming.
Check if a leak appears somewhere (filter pump, heating, connection) as well as the water level. This must drop slightly but never below the skimmers (if this is the case, there is a non-visible leak, stop the system and check the entire installation.
If there are no leaks, do a chlorine shock and then, depending on your treatment system, check the dosages: Alkalinity, PH and Chlorine.
2°) Following a Passive wintering : (total emptying of the system)
Clean the pool using the landing net to remove the "big" and pass the robot or clean with the vacuum cleaner connected to the broom socket. Then proceed in the same way as the first recommissioning.
3°) Following an active wintering : (the swimming pool remained functional all winter)
Clean the pool using the landing net to remove the "big" and pass the robot or clean with the vacuum cleaner connected to the broom socket.
Carry out a filter wash
Apply shock chlorine and then, depending on your treatment system, check the dosages: Alkalinity, PH and Chlorine.
Plug in and reprime the heating system.
III - WINTERING
There are two types of wintering:
active wintering (the water will continue to circulate in the pool),
passive wintering: the water level is lowered and the hydraulic system is drained for the winter, floats are placed in the basin and Gizmos in the skimmers.
In any case, two things must be observed: Do not completely empty your pool and limit the duration of wintering as much as possible.
Main steps for passive wintering:
1°) Cleaning the water line and the interior of the skimmers including the basket:
- With a soft brush or sponge for liners (no abrasive products),
- With a stiff brush for tiles and polyesters.
2°) Suction
-Cleaning the bottom of the pool and the walls, with a broom - manual or automatic vacuum cleaner.
-Filtration in operation.
3°) Backwash of the sand filter. -Clean the filter(s) and bleed them if necessary.
4°) For passive wintering, lower the water level below the discharges and place the pipes in wintering; Plug the skimmers, the backflows and the broom socket.
5°) Maintenance of the pump.
-In a dry technical room the pump can remain in place.
-If there is a risk of moisture, disconnect the power supply after turning off the power.
- Dismantle the fittings - inlet and outlet unions.
6°) Store the various equipment: Ladders / Diving boards / vacuum cleaner broom. Brush them with soapy water, before storage, to prevent any deposits from drying and hardening.
7°) Placement of wintering products:
- According to the dosage given on the instructions: the product must be poured on the outskirts of the body of water and is very easily diluted.
8°) Installation of wintering equipment.
-The floats: Place along a long side or along a diagonal.
-In the skimmer(s), installation of the gizmos.
- Plugging of the discharge, the broom socket and the bottom drain.
9°) Deployment of the cover (tarpaulin with bars, curtain, etc.).
- If you have a winter cover, it must be stretched as much as possible on the body of water and its peripheral fixing tight: it must not "yawn" at the edge, it must not "flap" in the wind otherwise …beware of rapid wear.
10°) Decommissioning of the cabinet.
- Cut the contacts.
-Remove the fuses.
-Disconnect
-Disconnect at the head of the line, if possible.
Main steps for active wintering:
The most important thing in active wintering is to control the water temperature. There are several possibilities: either you control the temperature manually and regularly, or you choose an automated system that will operate the filtration system depending on the temperature.
It is highly recommended, this system is also recommended if you don't want to bother watching your pool all winter long.
In addition to saving you costly repairs in the event of frost, the anti-freeze box ensures peace of mind!
Once the water reaches a temperature lower than or equal to 12°C, you can proceed to wintering.
1°) Thoroughly clean your pool and your filter
2°) Adjust your pH
3°) Stop the operation of automatic devices (pH regulator, chlorinator, etc.)
4°) If necessary, shock your pool (shock chlorine, oxygen peroxide, calcium hypochlorite or active oxygen) and let the filtration run for 24 hours continuously
5°) Clean the filter again (if sand or diatomaceous earth filter)
6°) Put a winterizing product (fungicide and anti-limestone) in the pool and run the filtration for 4 hours
7°) Set your filtration clock according to the water temperature The trick is to divide the temperature by three to have the winter filtration time: 9°C = 3 hours of filtration, 6°C = 2 hours of filtration , etc.
8°) You can then lay your cover (not mandatory) and Install floats in your pool (on the diagonal) as well as gizmos in the skimmers
9°) Open the bottom drain valve and leave the discharges open
10°) Maintenance tips during the winter
-During the winter, you must continue to monitor your pool, especially in freezing weather (this is why it is advisable to install an anti-freeze box).
If you do not have an antifreeze box and there is a period of frost, operate your filtration on forced operation.
-You no longer need to treat your pool, but still monitor the pH of your water and readjust it if necessary.
Note: In normal operation, the skimmers are fully open and the main drain half-open. As the water is warmer at the bottom of the pool, simply opening the bottom drain valve allows the hot water to rise to the surface.
This operation facilitates the movement of water which cannot turn into ice. Once the freezing period is over, remember to put the skimmers back into operation.
If a few centimeters of ice settle on your pool, there is a risk that the skimmers will suck air under the ice. And that can unprime the pump. If that happens, stop everything, there is no other choice.
If ice has formed on your pool, do not try to break it because you could take a piece of liner in it...
If, however, the frost period is harsher than you thought, you can switch from active wintering to passive wintering.
IV - CURRENT USE OF YOUR POOL:
Monitor the general level of the water body:
The water must be at the level of 2/3 of the skimmer.
-Level too low: risk of air intake and damage to the pump.
-Level too high: no more skimming of surface layers of water, resulting in imperfect operation.
Make sure that the body of water is really simmering at the outlet of the discharge nozzles:
This is a sign that the water circulation is working. For all types of filtration, if the flow slows down, check the suction of the pump and the degree of clogging of the filter (manometer).
Clean the water line:
Using a special sponge, if a deposit is encrusted, use the appropriate product, anti-limestone and anti-grease. Be careful not to rub a liner with an abrasive product, this would make it porous and even more vulnerable afterwards.
Skip the surface landing net and / or the bottom landing net: To remove large impurities. The landing net is pushed slowly in an “S” movement in a regular manner, avoiding backtracking.
Pass the broom-vacuum or the robot: Pass the manual broom-vacuum or better yet let the automatic broom-vacuum work.
Emptying the skimmer baskets: Skimming of the body of water is carried out automatically by the skimmer(s). Care must be taken to avoid fouling of the skimmer wall and obstruction of the pre-filtration basket. To do this, remove and empty the baskets of the skimmer(s) and put them back in place (2 mins).
Clean the pre-filter:
Very close to the pump upstream of it, there is a pre-filter. The lid is usually transparent.
This is where you primed the pump. Check and clean if necessary by removing the basket and hosing it down, for example.
Check / clean the clogging of the filter (sand or glass): The filter allows to block the impurities that the skimmers have let through. The pressure gauge located on the sand filter should be checked every week during the bathing season: the pressure measured in bars reflects the level of clogging of the filter. This washing and rinsing operation consumes nearly 5 to 10 m³ of water, depending on the size of the filter and the washing time (2' minimum). It is therefore necessary to carry it out only if the manometer requires it.
Analyze the water and correct it if necessary: Simple and reliable systems can analyze the water in a few seconds and give the level of alkalinity, pH and disinfectants.
To be of good quality, swimming pool water must be: clear, balanced, disinfected, disinfectant. If necessary, the water may need to be corrected by adding a product or by simply adjusting the chlorinator or the regulator. Most chlorine sanitizing agents work best with a pH between 7.2 and 7.6. - Do not go below 7 to avoid causing problems linked to the aggressiveness of the water.
If necessary, introduce disinfectants and flocculants, pH-regulating products into the water with the filtration running and after having dissolved them in the water (never have a solid product directly in contact with the pool's coating)
Several ways to proceed, depending on the products and coatings:
-Disinfectants:
- in skimmers, it is a common process and without major risk,
-in a semi-automatic dispenser,
- by an automatic regulation device,
-by an electrolyser.
- Flocculants and pH regulators:
-directly in the basin (after dissolving in water) or by an automatic regulation device.
Saving pool water:
On average, a swimming pool naturally loses 20 to 30% of its water every year. This loss must be qualified according to the location, the use, the equipment and the care taken in the maintenance of your swimming pool.
How does a swimming pool lose water? :
Let's start by understanding the origin of the losses. They are common to all basins.
–Evaporation caused by sunshine, winds, surrounding vegetation. This is the most important escape point. It is reduced/increased depending on whether or not the swimming pool is equipped with a cover system (tarpaulin, shelter).
–Leaks. It seems that 1 in 3 swimming pools has leaks, of all origins: structure of the pool, coating, fittings, parts to be sealed, piping, technical room.
– Splashes and splashes related to the use of the pool: bathers, frequency and type of bathing.
–Filter washing. As it is used, the filter material becomes loaded with various impurities. They must be evacuated to continue to filter the water properly and prevent it from becoming cloudy or heavy. A filter wash of 2 minutes consumes between 100 and 200 liters depending on the size of the filter.
How to save water? : A few ways can help you do this.
1 – Repair leaks as soon as possible. Visible leaks should be repaired as soon as possible. To determine if the level is dropping due to evaporation or a leak, do the bucket test.
2 – Cover your pool when not in use. Whether via a bubble cover, a shutter or a shelter, it is essential to have a cover system to minimize evaporation (and heat loss during the night).
3 – Do not leave the water unattended during the filling phases. Install an automatic fill device that switches on and off to keep the water at the correct level. If you have an automatic filling device, have your pool checked for any possible leaks.
4 – Avoid games that throw water out of the pool. Bombs, spraying people out of the pool, etc. If it is fun at times, it is better not to install it as a normal and systematic habit. This is a point to explain to the children.
5 – Use chemicals wisely. Neither too much nor too little… This is a point that may seem complicated for some, but it is first and foremost a matter of learning and maintenance routine. Use as few products as possible to keep the water clear and crystal clear.
6 – Turn off fountains and waterfalls when not needed. For this type of equipment, it is wise to install programmers such as the clock which activates / deactivates the filtration.
7 – Keep the water level low. No need to raise the water level to the top of the skimmers or to try to have a water line at the highest point under the coping. The higher the water level, the greater the losses by splashing or splashing.
8 – Reduce the temperature of heating systems in summer. If you have a heat pump or another type of heating (exchanger, boiler, etc.), remember to lower the temperature in summer to reduce evaporation or turn them off when the pool is not in use. Choose a cover (bubble cover, etc.).
9 – Properly clean your pool to limit filter washes. Regularly check and empty the skimmer and filtration pump baskets. Only wash/rinse the filter when it is really dirty (turbidity indicator or filter dome). It is also a way to save on treatment products.
10 – Reuse rinsing water for plants. It depends on the installation of your hydraulic network but it may be wise to recover the water from washing / rinsing to water your plants.
11 – Apply treatment products in the evening. The sun accelerates the dissipation of chlorine. It is best not to put on your disinfectant products when the sun is at its highest, so as not to have to add more often.
12 – Surround your swimming pool with plants. Plants make it possible to limit the evaporation of water linked to the wind by creating a natural barrier.
VI - THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES:
When it comes to swimming pools, it is often the same mistakes that come up when you start out.
Here are the common mistakes that all new pool owners make, your pool specialist is there to remind you of them.
Not testing your pool water every week:
Testing the water in your swimming pool every week makes it possible to check that the chemical balance of the water is appropriate. Most problems with cloudy water or discoloration stem from this. Water can be tested with test strips, liquid reagent or tablets. For a deeper water analysis, you can ask us for a complete chemistry of your water.
For this weekly check, it is enough to check the pH and the disinfectant (chlorine in general). These are the 2 values that vary the fastest. If you are using strips, you will also be able to check alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid. At least twice a year, you should also check all the components of your water:
Free and total chlorine
pH and alkalinity
calcium hardness
Cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer)
Salt and TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)
Presence of copper and iron
Phosphates and nitrates
Never brush your pool.
By buying your automatic vacuum cleaner or your robot, you may be thinking of freeing yourself from the manual cleaning of your pool. Masterful error. It is necessary to brush and clean by hand the places where the robot does not pass. Otherwise algae can become encrusted and proliferate. It is also to prevent the degradation of the coating (appearance of indelible stains). To do once a week in summer.
Behind the ladder (plus the bars)
Water line (very very important)
Steps or stairs
Crannies and crevices
Filter less than 8 hours per day
It's your filter and the suction/delivery work of the pump that keeps your pool clean. It is recommended to run the filter pump at least 8 hours a day.
The rule is: Filtration time = water temperature divided by 2
In all cases, run it for at least 8 hours a day (except in the case of wintering).
If the filtration system is well sized, this means that all of the water in your pool passes through the filter at least twice during this period of time.
The more you filter, the less algae you will have, but do not fall into the opposite excess by filtering 24 hours a day. It's no use.
Washing the filter too frequently and for too long
Washing and rinsing your filter cleans the filter material that gets dirty as it removes dirt from the water. This material can be sand (the most common), glass beads or diatoms.
To maintain correct filtration, the filter must be washed from time to time, otherwise it ends up clogging up. However, with each washing / rinsing, several hundred liters of water are evacuated from the swimming pool. The pool must then be refilled with fresh water.
If the filter is washed too often or if the washing time is too long, a lot of water is lost.
To know the right moment of washing, you have to rely on the manometer. Its gauge indicates the pressure inside the tank. The filter should only be washed when the needle is up. Many pressure gauges are equipped with color codes. Only when the pressure gauge needle is in the red zone should the filter be cleaned. No need to do this if the needle is too low.
3 other important things to know:
-Since water is emptied at each wash/rinse, it should be done preferably when the water level is high in the pool.-To know if the filter is washed well, rely on the indicator turbidity of the filter. It shows you the state of the water.-Finally, know that (the height of the height) the cleaner it is, the less impurities it retains. The filter is most effective when it is lightly clogged. It is therefore not a good idea to wash/rinse the filter as long as you see impurities in the filter. These tricks will save you several m³ of water per year.
Put chlorine (shock or slow) directly in the pool water
The shock treatment releases a very high concentration of chlorine. At high concentration, chlorine bleaches almost everything: textiles, but also coatings.
If you have a pool with a liner, do not put the chlorine directly into the water. Be aware that a tablet of chlorine (even slow chlorine) which rests and dissolves on the liner itself, will leave an indelible white stain. In addition to discoloration, it weakens the membrane and could turn into a leak point.
VII - THE MOST COMMON ANOMALIES
The pool water is cloudy:
You no longer see the bottom of your pool clearly, unlike usual. Even with your glasses on, you see blurry. It's probably the pool water that's cloudy. But why ?
Possible causes :
-Chlorine treatment is insufficient
-The pH is out of balance
-The filtration did not work sufficiently
We must react. Check and correct alkalinity, pH and chlorine levels, and run filtration.
Filtration can also be the cause of this anomaly, in this case proceed with cleaning or, if necessary, replacing the filtering load (sand or glass).
Carry out a flocculation adapted to the type of filtration.
The water in your swimming pool is green:
Possible causes: This means that the water treatment has not been carried out correctly. It is the growing algae that gives the water a green color.
Remedies: Add an anti algae treatment (algicide) in the water, and also control the pH and the chlorine. Let the filtration run until the water returns to its normal color and appearance. Brush the walls of your pool to remove all traces of algae. After this water maintenance session, hopefully everything will go back to how it was. In the future, do not forget to treat your water with an algaecide, and to operate the filtration sufficiently. Besides, do you think about cleaning your filter and changing worn components?
Your water is brown or reddish :
Rarer: the color of the water in your pool could approach red. Too much iron? Rust? In fgeneral,
Possible causes: The disinfectant or filtration is faulty.
Remedies: Regular monitoring of the disinfectant level is sufficient. "Color errors" can be corrected.
Stay alert: the color of the water is easier to restore if you notice that it is just starting to turn. You need to regularly monitor your water, its treatment, its color and its balance.
My pool has black spots on the walls or bottom:
Possible causes :
1 – Local proliferation of algae.
2 - Action of a hydrogen sulphide produced by certain microorganisms in the presence of metal ions (copper, manganese).
If you have a salt pool, these stains usually appear where you poured the salt (in piles at the bottom of the pool).
The salt (whatever it is) causes a sudden oxidation of the metal ions which then attach themselves to the coating and color it.
The higher the pH of the water and the higher the chlorine level, the more marked the stain will be.
Remedies:
1 – Same treatment as in n°4
2 – Perform shock chlorination
-Introduce an anti-metal deposit inhibitor
The pH goes down:
The water that you add, to top up the level, is in PH+ so that you are obliged to add PH-. But oddly the PH remains below the recommended standards
Rainwater is likely the cause of lowering the pH of your pool water.
It will suffice to add PH+ in liquid or powder form to return to PH+ for regulation to work correctly.
Water irritates the eyes:
Warning: stop swimming immediately until the anomaly is corrected.
Readjust the pH accordingly.
Check the level of disinfectant (chlorine, etc.)
Increase filtration time.
In conclusion…
As you have seen, pH is an essential factor for balanced water. It is very often at the origin of the problem, or indirectly, only makes it worse. Therefore check the pH value in your swimming pool frequently.